It’s much easier to choose your skincare products if know what to look
for and what to stay away from. Let’s talk cleansers first.
Your facial skin is much more delicate than your body skin. Therefore
you should never use body soap to wash your face. Also, water is not
enough to remove makeup, oil, dead skin and all the environmental
particles your face picks up during the day. For a bright complexion you
must use a facial cleanser.
A loose cream or gel cleanser that is water soluble and easily rinses
away is the best choice for most skin types. I do not recommend bar
cleansers because they contain waxy ingredients necessary to form their
bar shape, which can clog pores.
You should not feel residue on your face after rinsing. If your cleanser
gives you a squeaky clean feeling after rinsing and makes your face
feel tight it means the detergents in the cleanser are too harsh and
have stripped the pH balance from your skin. This causes the skin to
immediately go into “repair mode” to bring back its pH balance.
In an effort to help your skin return to normal, the oil glands often
overreact and start pumping out excessive oil, which negates your
cleansing routine. Cleansers with isopropyl alcohol and acetone give
skin the same reaction. Stay away from cleansers with heavy fragrances
that can cause irritation. Most facial wipes contain chemicals with very
irritating ingredients.
Cleansers with alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) are good for almost all skin
types except those with acne. The most common AHAs are glycolic and
lactic acid. An AHA cleanser gives the skin a healthy glow by ungluing
and washing away dull dead skin cells, allowing new skin cells to
surface. AHA acts as a humectant to keep the skin hydrated. It also
smooths and softens sun damaged skin, clears up occasional blemishes and
minimizes pores.
If you are prone to acne and blackheads you should use a cleanser with
salicylic acid, which is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid). BHA’s travel deeper
into the skin than AHA’s to unplug clogged pores. Another ingredient
to look for is Benzoyl peroxide, an organic compound that kills acne
causing bacteria and acts as an antimicrobial. It is safer to choose a
lower strength BP (2.5%) because they are less irritating to the skin
and research shows that higher strengths are not significantly more
effective in clearing acne.
Don’t use “all-natural” facial scrubs. They typically contain crushed
nuts and those slivers can lacerate your skin tissue. Scrubs with a
sandy feel perform most like microdermabrasion and should be used after
cleansing. Never use a scrub the same time you’re cleansing to remove
dirt, oil and makeup from your face. You will actually be grinding it
all back into your skin. YUCK!
You don’t need to purchase a pricey electric face brush to get your skin
really clean. The chemical exfoliation of an AHA or BHA cleanser
penetrates into the skin and exfoliates it more evenly than mechanical
scrubbing. For sensitive skin types, a gentle milk cleansing lotion is
effective and soothing.
It’s easy to waste a lot of money on cleansers because you keep trying
to find one that works. I recommend dropping by a reputable spa and
talking to their resident esthetician to see what she recommends for
you.
For those of you who are interested – I use Jan Marini Skin Care Research Bioglycolic Facial Cleanser and absolutely love it (www.janmarini.com)
SRP $29.00 for 8 oz. pump. It contains glycolic acid and rinses so
clean there is no need for a toner. I use it twice a day and one bottle
easily lasts five months. And with my MakeUpMiser I’m able to scoop out
100% of the product from the bottle.
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